A new chapter has just begun for KOUA with the opening of the brand’s first Paris gallery-boutique and the launch of its latest capsule collection, Madame Avant Moi. The occasion felt like the perfect moment to sit down with Erika Álvarez the creative mind behind the brand to discuss its journey, the inspiration behind the new collection, and what it means to bring a Mexican fashion label to one of the world’s fashion capitals.
Beca: How did your journey in the fashion industry begin?
Erika: From a very young age, I had a special love for fashion and the arts in general. I loved dancing, dreamed of acting, and was always looking for creative ways to express myself. However, because of their generation’s beliefs, my parents didn’t see an artistic career as a stable option. So I followed a more traditional path until I was 24, when I decided to pursue my true calling. I left my job in Mexico and moved to London to study a master’s degree in fashion. That was the moment I finally began building the career I had always dreamed of.
Beca: Do you remember the moment you realized fashion was what you wanted to do?
Erika:There wasn’t one defining moment. I think I always knew. Fashion and the arts have always been part of who I am, so I simply had to wait until the circumstances of my life aligned and allowed me to follow that path.
Beca: Who or what were your earliest creative influences?
Erika: My earliest creative influences were gymnastics, which I practiced for many years as a child, and dance. Both taught me how to express myself through movement and became a way to release my emotions and communicate what I often couldn’t put into words.
Beca: How does a new collection or creative project come to life?
Erika: Everything usually begins with a personal story or something I’m experiencing at that particular moment. It starts with an emotion and a message I want to share with the world—always through beauty rather than fear. I first identify what I want to say, and then I find the best way to express it.
I often need moments of solitude, away from external noise, so I can truly listen to myself. During those moments, I love reconnecting with nature because that’s where ideas flow most naturally. From that connection, the colors, silhouettes, and the complete vision for the collection begin to emerge.
Beca: What inspired your latest collection?
Erika: My two grandmothers.
With Madame Avant Moi, I wanted to pay tribute to everything I inherited from them: their strength, resilience, and ability to keep moving forward. At the same time, I wanted to break away from certain patterns that no longer belong to me—constant struggle, suffering, silence, and the inability to become who they truly wanted to be because of the roles society imposed on them.
The collection represents honoring where I come from without having to repeat the same story. It also marked the beginning of a new chapter in my life: opening my first boutique in Paris.
Beca: How would you describe your brand’s DNA in three words?
Erika: Heritage, beauty, and purpose.
Beca: What story do you hope to tell through your designs?
Erika: Most of my designs feature embroidery or textiles created by artisan communities across Mexico. Through them, I want to tell the story behind each technique while giving visibility and recognition to the artisan behind every piece.
I also want to show the world how our cultural heritage can engage in a dialogue with contemporary design, while highlighting the true value of our embroidery, our roots, and the knowledge that has been passed down from generation to generation.
Beca:What do you see as the most significant changes happening in the fashion industry today?
Erika: I’m encouraged to see a growing demand for transparency throughout production chains and a greater appreciation for handmade craftsmanship. It’s also exciting that buying second-hand clothing is becoming increasingly normalized and valued, as is upcycling—transforming existing garments to give them a new life.